By Faizal Kamsan

Reading time: 7 minutes 

After Hours is an insight into the people of the hospitality industry. It’s putting a face and name to the creators of the food that you’re Instagramming, the drinks you’re sipping, and to those who waited at your table.

On a misty Labour Day Monday, as I walked past New Plymouth’s clocktower armed with my little notebook and trusty camera, I was on a mission to find out who ‘the man behind the white chef coat and pinstriped apron’ really is. Today’s guest is the award-winning executive chef of Meat & Liquor, Frederick’s, Snug Lounge, and Ms White.

Chef Robert Isbister (pronounced as Eyes-bister).

I first met Robbie in my early days on arriving in New Plymouth. I was invited to the Friday night sessions also known as the “Chef’s Table” – a regular event not restricted to just chefs, but, in fact, is a gathering of hospitality superstars.

At a glance, you’ll see Robbie as any other chef in this town. But as I sat and chatted with him, I found out about all the interesting bits and pieces that make him stand out from the norm.

Robbie was born and raised on the rural side of Taranaki. He may seem like a regular lad, but his bloodline traces back all the way to the island of Orkney, Scotland. He’s also a descendant of the Norse – Germanic people who settled in Scandinavia during the Viking Age.

Like many chefs I’ve met over the years, Robbie started his career at 14 years old in the most important position in every kitchen – the dish pit – before climbing the ranks and building up the passion as he progressed. He said that at first, it was just a job to fill in the extra hours, but before he knew it, it had turned into a profession. Guessing it’s true that once you dip your hand in the trade it’s hard to get out of it. It’s a trade which, he said, taught him the values of work ethics, acceptance to change, as well as the ideology of other cultures and their cuisines.

When asked what it’s like managing people of different backgrounds as well as those of different ethnicity, his answer is simple, yet carries an impact: “be committed”. What Robbie looks for in a cook is more about personality because positive vibes in a hot kitchen are a definite ‘must have’ regardless of ethnicity and background.

“Skills can be taught. Character you either have or you don’t have.” – Anthony Bourdain.

Through food, Robbie has experienced diversity and cultural differences at the same time. He would work alongside his chefs to gain knowledge before diving deep into researching ingredients, especially with the likes of Snug Lounge which serves up Japanese cuisine. Robbie feels grateful to have a Japanese chef under his wing in Snug Lounge, which makes achieving authenticity slightly easier.

“Cooking is all about people. Food is maybe the only universal thing that really has the power to bring people together. No matter what culture, everywhere around the world, people eat together.” – Guy Fieri

Robbie would spend endless hours to get the right balance of flavours that are closest to his interpretation of authenticity – as we both agreed, that interpretation is subjective.

His motto is: “Shop local, serve global”, which, in my view, is the way to go in this industry, given that food has no boundaries. Robbie’s style of cooking is based on simplicity as well as sourcing seasonal ingredients and turning them into something that you will find in a posh, upscale restaurant.

“I believe that there is always something new to learn, in fact, that is one of the three reasons that I chose to become a chef, that my education is never over.” – Anne Burrell

As we discussed during his spare moments after shifts, Robbie said, “Balancing career and family can be challenging at times but having a supportive family sure eases the pressure a little.” It’s a trade that takes most of one’s time away from family but even so, it’s definitely a rewarding one, too.

“I think every chef, across the world, has a double-edged sword – two jackets, one that’s driven, a self-confessed perfectionist, thoroughbred, hates incompetence and switches off the stove, takes off the jacket and becomes a family man.” Gordon Ramsay

As for the future, he would love to see more young cooks getting proper hands-on knowledge in the culinary world, especially in New Plymouth; and hopefully run his own restaurant.

Robbie’s passion really shows in what he does, and as we chatted on, he would like to give special thanks to his wife,Courtney for always being his rock as he goes in search of perfection.

Recipe

Tonka bean Crème caramel

Tonka bean, the black seed of a South American tree, has a fragrance like that of vanilla. The dried beans are cured in rum or other alcohol and then used in perfumery and for scenting and flavouring tobacco, ice cream, and other products.

Serves 8

Ingredients

Caramel

White chocolate 200 g
Tonka bean 1 piece
Sugar 150 grams
Cream 1 litre
Egg yolks 10
Cinnamon quills 3 pieces

Method

• Gently heat up cream with cinnamon quills and tonka beans
• Add sugar and bring to a gentle boil to dissolve any granules
• Gently whisk in white chocolate
• Remove from heat and add tempered yolks with hot cream mix
• Strain
• Fill lined mould with caramel and portion tempered mix
• Use blow torch to remove any bubbles
• Bake in the oven at 100 °C for 45 minutes
• Set aside to cool or place in the fridge to chill.

Mascarpone & vanilla topping

Mascarpone
Vanilla essence
Icing sugar
Mix well and taste.

To serve

Remove creme caramel from its mould and set on a plate
Top with a dollop of mascarpone & vanilla mix.

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